Thassos Town, the capital also known as Limenas, nestles in front of a pine-clad hillside. It’s a bustling town, full of fascinating little shops and tavernas in narrow side-streets, competing with slightly grander establishments in the main thoroughfares.
It’s a place to explore at leisure, strolling along the old but busy harbour-side, into the town and eventually reaching the central square where you can see the ruins of an early Christian basilica beside the remains of a mosaic floor most likely from a 2nd century AD residence. The only area of the ancient city not built over is the Agora, accessible via a short walk from the old harbour and this is certainly worth a visit. There’s a children’s playground nearby to tempt younger visitors afterwards. For the energetic there’s a steep walk up to the ancient theatre overlooking the capital.
The town makes an ideal starting point for visiting the island. One of our favourite excursions was to the twin bays of Aliki, to the southeast of the island. On one side were the ruins of two ancient temples with no name, some of the stones from which were used to build the island’s first Christian church a little way away. The views are spectacular and our scramble over the rocks and boulders to the other bay was rewarded with a fabulous sandy beach, lined with tavernas, and beautiful clear, shallow water, ideal for little ones to cool off in.
Both times we visited this part of the island, we stopped off at the Archangelos Monastery run by nuns. Open every day till sunset, dress code is very strict here - no bare legs or arms - but for the unaware various ill-assorted garments are kept at the entrance to protect modesty and provide some hilarious outfits.
The Monastery clings to the cliff-side offering amazing views and a wonderful serenity. The community is self-sufficient and we found some of our best souvenirs in their gift shop that is worldly enough to accept credit cards.
Back in Thassos town, the old harbour is lined with boats offering day’s cruises to beaches you can’t normally reach. Disappointingly the one we went on didn’t live up to expectations - the beach was crowded, the barbecue, cooked on the boat not on the beach as advertised, was uninspired. It pays to ask around for the best deal - ours was a rip-off.
Sightseeing in the heat can be exhausting, so some days we just relaxed on one of the many
fabulous beaches. The sea is perfect for snorkelling and the beaches safe and sandy – many tree-lined offering welcome shade - ideal for younger and older children alike with rock pools to investigate, sand castles to build and shells to collect.
If the sun becomes all too much, wander to the Topferei pottery situated on the main road from the town heading east, where the local potter works and sells his wares. Apart from the usual artefacts he makes a range of little animals that children can’t resist and he can sometimes be persuaded to let visitors try their skill at throwing a pot.
Thassos town is lively and fun in the evening. With numerous restaurants (some just a few tables set out on one of the narrow streets) and ample bars to enjoy a drink beforehand and admire the views at the harbour or the passing crowds in town. And best of all, children are very welcome everywhere.
Getting there:
Many tour companies offer holidays in Thassos. We stayed in Tarsanas Studios, situated about 20 minutes walk from the town. There’s a taverna and bar and the beach is two minutes away across the lawn!